KSI/Tron Lamborghini Aventador – 1/24 Aoshima Kit Tutorial – Beginner Buildz pt6 [494 Garage S2 Ep1]

KSI/Tron Lamborghini Aventador – 1/24 Aoshima Kit Tutorial – Beginner Buildz pt6 [494 Garage S2 Ep1]


La Lamborghini. La Lamborghini. Chick. I know
you see me. In my Lamborghini. La Lamborghini. La Lamborghini. Ride so quick, you would think I’m Houdini. Dear subscribers,
Apologies for the delay in uploading new videos. Hopefully this new KSI Tron Lamborghini
Aventador build video will make up for some lost time. Also, if you are building along,
yes, this video does include a good method to attach the door hinges so that the doors
can be opened and closed. Now, I don’t currently have access to my
usual sound recording facilities, so Bob here (that is me, Bob the voiceover guy) will be doing the voice description for the whole of this video. Hopefully it won’t be long before I can get back on a
microphone, but until then, enjoy the show, leave a like if you want to get more regular
content from the channel, and leave a comment so I know whether Bob has done a good job.
Finally, Hello Model Citizens. Welcome back to Beginner builds! I’m DeeEss, The Plastic Mechanic and this
is my KSI Tron Lamborghini Aventador build video. This is a great Aoshima kit which I’ve
already painted up, so let’s get started. This kit has moving, poseable wheels. To ensure
they turn properly, make sure you do not get any glue on the central pin when assembling
the front brakes. The front hubs can be identified by the steering mechanism pins on the top
and bottom, and have an alignment slot to make sure they are on straight. The front and rear suspension set ups have cross members that needs gluing in place. The cross members for the front have a slight bend to them and the rear ones are straight. Once the front suspension has been glued in place. The front wheels can be slotted in.
Do not glue them in. Also, make sure that the brake calipers are towards the rear. The steering mechanism just clips into place. Once this has been attached, the front wheels
will turn together. Assemble the rear brakes in the same way as
the front brakes, being careful not to glue the central pin in place when attaching the
hub. The rear suspension is similar to the front
suspension, except the slots to attach the wheels are rectangular to stop the wheels
from steering. Remember that the cross members for the rear are straight compared to the
front ones. The front wheels can be identified by being
narrower than the rear wheels. Assemble them by sliding the tires over the hubs and adding
a rubber washer to the rear. Once the front wheels are assembled, you can
push them onto the brakes and then repeat the process for the rear wheels. You will
then have a rolling chassis with poseable wheels that turn and brake calipers that stay
in place. Putting the motor together is pretty straight
forward. First, glue the two halves of the block and the end plate together. Next add the timing belt and wheels, and the starter motor. All the parts of the motor have clear slots to make sure each piece is installed correctly. The motor is finished off by installing the exhaust manifold. The motor can now be glued into the engine bay.
The rear suspension slots in over the motor. The rear suspension slots in over the motor. The intakes are glued in over the rear suspension. The engine is pretty much finished off by gluing the air intakes into place. The interior starts with gluing the dials into place. Be precise here or you might end
up tearing the decal, if the glue grabs on to it. Next glue the two halves of the dashboard together. The steering column has slots for the paddle gear levers and for the steering wheel, which glue together to form one piece. The foot pedals glue directly to the interior tub and have holes to make locating them very easy to do. The centre console glues in simply, and the assembled dashboard glues directly on top of it. The steering column glues and slots into the
dashboard, at which point the interior tub is almost complete. The headrests for the seats come in two parts, which makes colour customisation really simple, and once the seats have been glued into place the interior tub is finish and can be glued onto the chassis. The engine bay can also be glued into place, at which point the interior of the chassis is finished. The finishing touch for the engine bay is the addition of oil pumps. Assembling the body, or exterior, begins with the installation of a number of grilles. The first is glued to the splitter. While looking complicated at first, there are clear recesses to make sure it is attached straight. The two-piece headlights are next. The running light bulb needs to be glued into the main housing. The front splitter should be glued into place next, however, this can be left until just
before attaching the body to the chassis to make general handling easier during the remaining
steps. The headlights glue into place easily, but
like many of the body parts, these might need additional glue on the inside to make sure
they stay attached. Back to attaching grilles to vents. All the
vents only fit in one orientation, so you can not get them the wrong way around. The windscreen wipers have locating holes, but do not limit the direction. You can have them flat as shown here, or in an operational position. These bonnet vents simply glue into place. The front windows are easy to glue into place,
but benefit from being glued from the inside for extra grip. The front vents are inserted from the front, but
like many body parts, benefit from being supported with extra glue on the inside of the body. The windscreen wipers attach with accurate locating slots. The roof liner also has locating slots. You will need to paint part of the roof to match the roof liner, if you want the whole roof to be one colour. The windscreen on this kit is a perfect fit and by adding a thin bead of glue it will stay in place without issue. The tail lights are made up of four separate pieces. When glued together, they form the tail light housing as a single piece, which
almost fits well enough not to require glue. The fuel cap glues in simply. The rear windows glue in in the same way as the front windows, and like the front windows benefit from being additionally glued from the inside. The side vents simply glue into place with no drama, and once the headlight and tail light glass, body panels and spoiler are installed, the body starts to look complete. The rear vents are installed from the inside and only fit one way around. The engine housing also has a vent to be installed, which only fits in one direction, and the interior/cabin window needs to be installed and attached. Once these are done, the engine
housing can be mounted to the body. The intake vents can seem complicated, but are not really. Firstly, attached the grilles that, once again, only fit in one orientation.
The instructions say to install the intake vents at this point, however, as shown later, it makes more sense to attach these to the body after the doors have been fitted to get proper alignment. The doors are very well designed to allow
colour customisation. First install the glass, which has alignment holes, then the door cards,
and finally the handle and controls. The wing mirrors are assembled by gluing the two supplied parts together. Care needs to be taken to install the grilles into the side skirts. These should be test fitted to make sure they are the right way
around before gluing into place. The pointed end should be positioned towards the top. The side skirts are attached using locating holes, however, these will probably require drilling out in order to fit once the body has been painted. Once the side skirts have been attached, reinforce them with additional glue applied from the inside. The footplates simply slot and glue into place. For the intake vents to fit correctly, the
doors should now be taped into place. Once the doors are aligned properly, the vents can be installed without any gaps in the body and reinforced with glue from the inside. The engine bay window may come off during assembly, but just glue it back into place. The door hinges are assembled by inserting them into the slots in the doors as shown here. Both hinges should be pointing inwards. The doors should also be taped closed to finish attaching the hinge mechanism. The hinge mechanism is completed by gluing the end plate into place as shown. The end plate fits along the contour of the body and has a small indentation for the hinge to sit inside. Be careful not to get any glue on
the hinge when attaching this end plate, or your doors will not open. The rear hood/engine cover is made up of two structural pieces and three pieces of glass. Once the glass has been installed, the two structural parts are glued together using the slots to make sure that they are straight. The side/turning lights are simply glued into place. The hinges for the rear hood/engine cover will not fit as shown in the instructions, if they are painted. If they are left as bare white plastic however, they will not look realistic, as they are a visible part. The door stands also do not fit in the closed position, as shown in the instructions, as they are too long. These can be left out however,
and only used whenever propping the doors open. Rather than strip the paint off the hinges to the rear hood/engine cover, these were simply removed. The metal props can be used alone for displaying the finished car with the engine cover open. The last grilles to be attached are to be
glued to the diffuser. Do yourself a favour, if you are building along.
Glue the rear view mirror facing into the cabin, not towards the windscreen as shown here. Lol. The access panel for the four wheel drive
system simply glues into place on the chassis, and then the chassis and the body can be snapped together. The two piece exhaust helps hold the splitter in place, and body to the chassis, so hopefully by this point you have everything pretty much as you want it, as reopening the body is difficult once the exhaust and splitter are glued on
securely… Difficult, but not impossible. Glue the wing mirrors in place to finish off
this build. I made a small crack in my windscreen when taking it off the parts tree, but fixed it with some clear glue and a bit of polishing. Now, this kit is a lot more detailed than this basic camera can show off, so I will post another short video soon with high definition photos to show it off better. For now, however, this Lamborghini Aventador build is finished. If you want to see another Aventador Beginner Build, focusing on using the photo etch parts and getting the Tron lines and interior painted,
leave a comment below so I know, because this was a fun build and I have another kit with photo etch sitting in the stash. Until the next one, this is me, DeeEss, The
Plastic Mechanic, with the help of Bob, the voiceover guy, and I’m out.

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